How awesome is it that my hubby wants that for us???
April 2013: We bought land. We need to plan and prioritize what we want to build on it. This blog is now brain flow of thoughts on the design. Previously: This blog history is full of very detailed info so maybe just skip it if you are the type to cringe and say "Ew. Too Much Info!" In addition to being an information sharing, it is also at times a way for me to cope or vent.
Saturday, August 10, 2013
A welcoming home
Came across a book. Dave ordered it. It's such a sweet book! And what a great guy for making this a priority... It a book about how to design a home that has a welcoming and inviting feel to it. A place where people come in and say.. "Ahhhhhh...." And just melt a bit.
Friday, August 2, 2013
landscaping with fire pits
I like the idea of a fire pit. About in the middle of the property.
I googled
landscaping with fire pit photos.
I liked the ones where the pit was raised.
I liked the round ones
I liked the ones that did NOT have a built in bench - so chairs around the fire can be adjusted based on how hot it is.
But then...
What about an outdoor wood brick / bread oven?
Or a spot to grill over the flame?
Need to work on getting away from the uni-tasker.
But keeping the "form" of being something appealing to gather around.
Because, being a gathering place, is a function too.
And in the end, having folks gather is more important than bread.
(but hey, lets go for both while we are at it eh?)
I googled
landscaping with fire pit photos.
I liked the ones where the pit was raised.
I liked the round ones
I liked the ones that did NOT have a built in bench - so chairs around the fire can be adjusted based on how hot it is.
But then...
What about an outdoor wood brick / bread oven?
Or a spot to grill over the flame?
Need to work on getting away from the uni-tasker.
But keeping the "form" of being something appealing to gather around.
Because, being a gathering place, is a function too.
And in the end, having folks gather is more important than bread.
(but hey, lets go for both while we are at it eh?)
Sunday, July 28, 2013
Lingering nagging bits
Still don't have "google sketch up" up and running yet. Would like to punch in some ideas.
Heights- need to make sure that the lowest point is a tad higher that the ceiling in our living room. Funny story - hubby reads the paper, then stands up and stretches. Leaves finger prints on the ceiling! Probably won't be able to change his habit, but will for sure plan on the lowest point being calculated! Carefully!
Solar - still won't know if it is possible till all the trees are down...
But hypothetically a possibility.
It sounds like we have to choose between
A) a solar unit that feeds a battery bank
Or
B) a solar unit tied to a grid (net zero)
The grid connected is good. But when the power goes down (not if) it won't work. What's the point if you still have to live for 6 days without heat, boiling water to wash dishes, and no hot showers????
There must be a way to say "oh?? Grid is down?? Okay. Lets have the solar energy feed batteries while this gets worked out. "
Or maybe two separate systems?
Essential basic stuff should be able to run on back up solar power
Heat in the floors
Master bath hot water heater - warm shower
Kitchen sink hot water heater - washing dishes
Clothes washer (not dryer) - and not for hot water but for running the machine.
Kitchen lights
Fridge in kitchen
Freezer in garage
One outlet for charging gadgets...
.....
And the TV... Maybe... That's a tough one...
The other issue is my strong desire to have a garbage disposal. I know I'm being pig headed wanting it.
So ... Would it be possible to have a tank system?
The garbage disposal to have its own drain? It would grind up the waste. And the Ort would go to the tank. About every three years we would switch over to the other tank.
Confused?
Lemme explain..
Once sat on an outhouse toilet.
After making a deposit, you were to toss on a handful of saw dust.
After three years of "deposits" they used the other toilet (toilet b).
While they used toilet B, the pile under toilet A turned into compost. At the end of 3 years, they emptied the tank under toilet a, started using toilet A again, and then toilet b got to have a three years break while its pile turned to compost.
Surely,,, there must be a way to do this, septic tank style, in the yard, with two small tanks that service JUST the garbage disposal. I mean really?!? You should, at this point, be breathing a sigh of relief that Im only talking about food waste! Ha ha!
Sunday, July 14, 2013
Stones
So the diagrams I have seen about passive solar talk about increasing your heat storage by having some sort of thermal mass.
Sure - concrete floors are awesome. But I will - in all likely hood - have furniture on the floors too. This would prevent the floors from absorbing all they can.
They also suggest a wall of some sort.
What if....
We do the stone in the kitchen around the stove - so it looks like a giant hearth - then use that SAME STONE in the living room on a wall between the living room and library or bedroom. That would be our heat sink wall.
Would maybe need to plan the foundation to have a slab there to bear the weight?
And about that hearth stove arch idea - lets make CERTAIN it's HUGE! So no tall folks have anything to bang their heads on! It's very possible that the next generation will be even taller!
Beams. Big beams look great with stone. Lets see what we come up with...
Goals reviewed
I do not think it is possible to build a home, in that location, that is fully off the grid. I believe there are limitations - out of my control, that limit the practicality of solar or wind.
I still think it is worth trying to achieve an off grid home.
When the almost annual blizzards and hurricanes wipe out power for days on end, I want to be a bit prepared.
When we get done clearing the land, we will have a better idea of what is possible for solar. The best way would be net zero. But when the net is down, are you fully STUCK with no power? From all I have read it seems you must choose one or the other? There must be a way to switch over to battery charging. Maybe one smaller unit that powers a limited number of things via battery, and the rest it net zero grid tied ... And maybe can be switch over when needed. Mmm... Won't know till the trees are down.
When we are fully retired and living on a fixed income - there will always be taxes... But avoiding the paralyzing affects of rising oil prices... Being able to have hot water, and heat, without worrying if there will be any money left to buy food.
Food prices will rise.
I hope to have a garden. And maybe some chickens / rabbits. I could trade eggs, rabbit fur/meat, for fish, clams, any number of things. I like the barter system.
I have on my reading list a book about designing a home for people of all ages and needs - old, wheelchair, ....
I still think this is important.
Reading list - book gift suggestions???
I would like these books ...for Christmas???
Maybe from amazon?
Used is perfect!
The cheaper the better!
"Green from the ground up" by David Johnston
"Building with Structural Insulated Panels" by Michael Morley
"
Prefabulous & sustainable
Building and customizing an affordable energy efficient home"
By Sheri koones
"Towards a zero energy home"
By David Johnston
"Living off the grid
A simple guide to creating and maintaining a self reliant supply of energy, water, shelter, and more "
By David black
"The Accessable Home
Designing for all ages and abilities"
By Deborah pierce and Michael graves
And then a few books on passive solar heating and cooling:
Perhaps a few titles to cull from?
"Passive solar house "by kachadorian
"The solar house" by chiras
A bit off topic but maybe worth a read-
"Design like you give a damn" by stohr
"Magic machines in a magic house : get off the grid" by saville
"Taking on water" by pabich
Saturday, July 13, 2013
more sage advice from Mother Earth News
Jan 2013 issue
page 35
A guide to DIY Kit Homes
gives a link I want to follow up on sometime:
www.B4UBuild.com
which answers questions about home contruction.
and it says a new home will cost $80 to $200 per square foot.
page 35
A guide to DIY Kit Homes
gives a link I want to follow up on sometime:
www.B4UBuild.com
which answers questions about home contruction.
and it says a new home will cost $80 to $200 per square foot.
Thursday, July 11, 2013
Taking Shape on the outside
This house is being designed .. kind of... from the outside ... in!
I saw a house ... in our neighborhood here in Alaska that is a boring version of what I think we want.
So first I will upload the boring photo.
I like it because the house is on the right. Then the garage, then the car port are on the left.
Then I am going to post photos of the type of "ZING" it needs.
Then... if you refer back to the Unity College Terra House ...
They posted this:
So, We need to block the summer afternoon sun. That is that lower right hand corner of the diagram - so this is a great place for a jutting out spacious porch. The South West Corner of the house is the first bit of the house you see as you pull up. This is the focal point of the home's exterior. It is a form, with a specific function... yet is as awesome as all hell! (here after referred to as "the FOCAL POINT PORCH"
Then, Across the South side you have to have an overhang or awning to block out the summer sun. Check out this diagram...
So across the South side of the house (from the street view this would be down the right side of the house) will be an overhang. I am thinking that visually it would look good if it came off the "focal point porch. - just a skinnier version. Actual math with be required to figure out the best size. Basically I want the heat "off" from May to October. So that is 5 months. We need to calculate the angle of the sun at the half way mark of those 5 months (not summer solstice since its hotter in August than on June 20th.)
So then, along that south side -
where the overhang is functioning to block unwanted sun,
there is also an opportunity to do this outdoor porch patio (see very left side of photo):
It would be a giant thick concrete slab - much like the one UNDER the addition at June's house.
The function would be to reflect winter sun up onto the windows. It also helps the windows lose less heat by being a heat source outside the windows.
Then, visual effect, it would have a railing like the one on the "focal point porch."
The roof line from the "focal Point Porch" would also continue across in front of the garage, and then over to the car port. The whole house would GIVE A FEEL of a wrap around porch. I will see if I can grab a photo of that roof line continuation as an example.
There are some around here.
(after a drive, here is the photo. Just see how the roof line continues from the front porch, across the big garage, and smaller garage. Now picture it going across the front porch, across the garage, and over the car port.
MMM.... and I am thinking the car port will be the length of 2 cars. maybe 2.5. Plenty of storage for Kayaks, bikes, Lawn Mowers, wheel Barrow, all that STUFF.
I saw a house ... in our neighborhood here in Alaska that is a boring version of what I think we want.
So first I will upload the boring photo.
I like it because the house is on the right. Then the garage, then the car port are on the left.
Then I am going to post photos of the type of "ZING" it needs.
Then... if you refer back to the Unity College Terra House ...
They posted this:
So, We need to block the summer afternoon sun. That is that lower right hand corner of the diagram - so this is a great place for a jutting out spacious porch. The South West Corner of the house is the first bit of the house you see as you pull up. This is the focal point of the home's exterior. It is a form, with a specific function... yet is as awesome as all hell! (here after referred to as "the FOCAL POINT PORCH"
Then, Across the South side you have to have an overhang or awning to block out the summer sun. Check out this diagram...
So across the South side of the house (from the street view this would be down the right side of the house) will be an overhang. I am thinking that visually it would look good if it came off the "focal point porch. - just a skinnier version. Actual math with be required to figure out the best size. Basically I want the heat "off" from May to October. So that is 5 months. We need to calculate the angle of the sun at the half way mark of those 5 months (not summer solstice since its hotter in August than on June 20th.)
So then, along that south side -
where the overhang is functioning to block unwanted sun,
there is also an opportunity to do this outdoor porch patio (see very left side of photo):
It would be a giant thick concrete slab - much like the one UNDER the addition at June's house.
The function would be to reflect winter sun up onto the windows. It also helps the windows lose less heat by being a heat source outside the windows.
Then, visual effect, it would have a railing like the one on the "focal point porch."
The roof line from the "focal Point Porch" would also continue across in front of the garage, and then over to the car port. The whole house would GIVE A FEEL of a wrap around porch. I will see if I can grab a photo of that roof line continuation as an example.
There are some around here.
(after a drive, here is the photo. Just see how the roof line continues from the front porch, across the big garage, and smaller garage. Now picture it going across the front porch, across the garage, and over the car port.
MMM.... and I am thinking the car port will be the length of 2 cars. maybe 2.5. Plenty of storage for Kayaks, bikes, Lawn Mowers, wheel Barrow, all that STUFF.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
"open cell"
http://www.epochhomes.com
modular manufacturer
open cell insulation
Rich
Horin
epochdsm@cox.net
modular manufacturer
open cell insulation
Rich
Horin
epochdsm@cox.net
Saturday, June 22, 2013
energy.gov is COOL!
OKAY,... not thinking of going this large but... this is a really cool link
http://www.nahb.org/news_details.aspx?newsID=9428&fromGSA=1
http://www.nahb.org/news_details.aspx?newsID=9428&fromGSA=1
Stick vs panel kit
found this article on the energy.gov site.
It compares a wood framed house to a manufactured panel home.
this is NOT SIP / passive house homes.
Two identical homes built side by side at the same time.
Less labor hours,
less waste (lowering cost of dumpsters)
http://www.nahb.org/fileUpload_details.aspx?contentTypeID=3&contentID=164336&subContentID=369222
It compares a wood framed house to a manufactured panel home.
this is NOT SIP / passive house homes.
Two identical homes built side by side at the same time.
Less labor hours,
less waste (lowering cost of dumpsters)
http://www.nahb.org/fileUpload_details.aspx?contentTypeID=3&contentID=164336&subContentID=369222
Saturday, June 15, 2013
home fire causes
Here's a breakdown of the leading causes of fire:
Cooking equipment: 42 percent or 157,038
Heating equipment: 17 percent or 63,563
Intentional: 8 percent or 29,912
Electrical distribution and lighting equipment: 6 percent or 22,434
Smoking materials: 5 percent or 18,695
Clothes dryer or washer: 4 percent or 14,956
Candle: 3 percent or 11,217
Exposure to other fire: 3 percent or 11,217
Playing with heat source: 2 percent or 7,478
Read more: http://www.abc15.com/dpp/news/region_southeast_valley/gilbert/common-causes-of-house-fires-include-kitchen-appliances-dryer#ixzz2WJ6Ch8Q2
Kitchens are the leading area of origin for home structure fires (42%) and civilian home fire injuries (38%).
So.... how do you design a safer kitchen?
google this...
cooking stoves in alcove photos.
Could put the whole stove in an alcove that is fire retardant (stone/brick/tile/...)
And have it known from the start - the whole thing has TO BE B-I-G so Dave, and our tall children, can cook with ease (instead of cooking with concussions).
But that is assuming that the kitchen fires are caused BY cooking on the stove. What if they are all caused by toaster ovens?
maybe make it big enough for toaster oven, microwave, and a spot for an electic wok or fry pan to also be in the "cooking alcove"
An estimated 2,900 clothes dryer fires in residential buildings are reported to U.S. fire
departments each year
Maybe the wash room will be outside of the home's vapor barrier? In the Garage? Or maybe there will be space between the garage and the house that will have heaters/boiler/pumps/ and a laundry room.
Cooking equipment: 42 percent or 157,038
Heating equipment: 17 percent or 63,563
Intentional: 8 percent or 29,912
Electrical distribution and lighting equipment: 6 percent or 22,434
Smoking materials: 5 percent or 18,695
Clothes dryer or washer: 4 percent or 14,956
Candle: 3 percent or 11,217
Exposure to other fire: 3 percent or 11,217
Playing with heat source: 2 percent or 7,478
Read more: http://www.abc15.com/dpp/news/region_southeast_valley/gilbert/common-causes-of-house-fires-include-kitchen-appliances-dryer#ixzz2WJ6Ch8Q2
Kitchens are the leading area of origin for home structure fires (42%) and civilian home fire injuries (38%).
So.... how do you design a safer kitchen?
google this...
cooking stoves in alcove photos.
Could put the whole stove in an alcove that is fire retardant (stone/brick/tile/...)
And have it known from the start - the whole thing has TO BE B-I-G so Dave, and our tall children, can cook with ease (instead of cooking with concussions).
But that is assuming that the kitchen fires are caused BY cooking on the stove. What if they are all caused by toaster ovens?
maybe make it big enough for toaster oven, microwave, and a spot for an electic wok or fry pan to also be in the "cooking alcove"
An estimated 2,900 clothes dryer fires in residential buildings are reported to U.S. fire
departments each year
Maybe the wash room will be outside of the home's vapor barrier? In the Garage? Or maybe there will be space between the garage and the house that will have heaters/boiler/pumps/ and a laundry room.
Grey Water
Back at it!
Still working on designing that house we will live in until we are 95+ years old.
Here is a glimpse of what we have ... so far!
There is a passive house in Little compton, RI.
It is designed by a company in Boston.
Its ugly.
But...
They used:
"Passive House-inspired
strategies that reduced the home heating requirements to one tenth of a similar new code built home. With
exceptional insulation
(R-44 walls, R-50 foundation, R-60 roof)"
http://www.zeroenergy.com/pdf/2012_EcoHome_Design_Awards.pdf
They used a spray foam insulation. I am not convinced that is the best way to go.
It can pull away, shrink, and leave gaps if not properly applied. and its just so new that there isn't anyone that is overly experienced with it.
Around here in AK,
they use insulation on the outside of the studs to eliminate thermal bridging.
I still would like to look at a home that is made with SIP. The downside is that over the (hopefully) 300 year life of the home, it might be harder for future residents to put on an addition. ("SIPs are a component wall, roof and floor system comprised of foam core insulation, sheathed on both sides to form a complete exterior framing system of the highest energy efficiency.")
http://www.sipbuilthomes.com/index_2.php
I still think any wood used should be "bluwood"
http://www.bluwood.com/
because the area is filled with carpenter ants and termites.
I would like a rocking sound system. That I can crank. While the kids are up stairs in bed. So yeah, I want insulation between the first floor and second floor.
also heard about a house that was designed to "shut down" the upstairs bedrooms if/when the kids ever move out. With a simple switch of a knob, and switch, all water and heat was shut down. There was a door to close to stop heat from going up there, and it was all set. I wonder if we would need a separate air exchanger for the upstairs if we were to do that? Totally separate "zone" in all aspects.
I have been liking the concept of re-using the gray water waste (everything but toilet waste)
to flush toilets. Not sure if building codes would allow it. The water gets filtered... a bit.
I LIKE this: http://www.designwhys.com/?p=38
But I DONT like these: (The sink and the toilet are one unit... tooo ... weird!)
two web sites for funny quirky pictures:
http://www.treehugger.com/bathroom-design/roca-toilet-integrates-sink-grey-water-cistern.html
http://www.fastcompany.com/1288861/five-stylish-ways-reuse-your-grey-water
Okay, so we will have a grey water tank. and a brown water tank. [Standard septic construction] How about a rain water cistern too? Or... How about... we have a garbage disposal in the sink... and that particular sink waste is directed to a composting cistern? In an area with septic tanks, most folks can't have a garbage disposal. But... if that waste was separated to its own composting tank... perhaps?
As we drive around we look at homes - size, layouts, ... it is more fun than ever.
Some must haves - a window seat big enough to sit and read in comfortably.
a library
a sun room or sunny area to chill
a screened in porch
open concept Kitchen/living room/dining room.
Master Bedroom Suite on first floor - with 4 foot shower
About that Master Suite - I would like the bathroom to have a throne room. and also I would like a pocket door that leads to the "guest half bath" so... while one "throne" is occupied, the second person has easy access to the second "throne." Nothing worse that toilet competition!
I want Chickens and Rabbits too. Not sure Dave is on board with that part yet...
Still working on designing that house we will live in until we are 95+ years old.
Here is a glimpse of what we have ... so far!
There is a passive house in Little compton, RI.
It is designed by a company in Boston.
Its ugly.
But...
They used:
"Passive House-inspired
strategies that reduced the home heating requirements to one tenth of a similar new code built home. With
exceptional insulation
(R-44 walls, R-50 foundation, R-60 roof)"
http://www.zeroenergy.com/pdf/2012_EcoHome_Design_Awards.pdf
They used a spray foam insulation. I am not convinced that is the best way to go.
It can pull away, shrink, and leave gaps if not properly applied. and its just so new that there isn't anyone that is overly experienced with it.
Around here in AK,
they use insulation on the outside of the studs to eliminate thermal bridging.
I still would like to look at a home that is made with SIP. The downside is that over the (hopefully) 300 year life of the home, it might be harder for future residents to put on an addition. ("SIPs are a component wall, roof and floor system comprised of foam core insulation, sheathed on both sides to form a complete exterior framing system of the highest energy efficiency.")
http://www.sipbuilthomes.com/index_2.php
I still think any wood used should be "bluwood"
http://www.bluwood.com/
because the area is filled with carpenter ants and termites.
I would like a rocking sound system. That I can crank. While the kids are up stairs in bed. So yeah, I want insulation between the first floor and second floor.
also heard about a house that was designed to "shut down" the upstairs bedrooms if/when the kids ever move out. With a simple switch of a knob, and switch, all water and heat was shut down. There was a door to close to stop heat from going up there, and it was all set. I wonder if we would need a separate air exchanger for the upstairs if we were to do that? Totally separate "zone" in all aspects.
I have been liking the concept of re-using the gray water waste (everything but toilet waste)
to flush toilets. Not sure if building codes would allow it. The water gets filtered... a bit.
I LIKE this: http://www.designwhys.com/?p=38
But I DONT like these: (The sink and the toilet are one unit... tooo ... weird!)
two web sites for funny quirky pictures:
http://www.treehugger.com/bathroom-design/roca-toilet-integrates-sink-grey-water-cistern.html
http://www.fastcompany.com/1288861/five-stylish-ways-reuse-your-grey-water
Okay, so we will have a grey water tank. and a brown water tank. [Standard septic construction] How about a rain water cistern too? Or... How about... we have a garbage disposal in the sink... and that particular sink waste is directed to a composting cistern? In an area with septic tanks, most folks can't have a garbage disposal. But... if that waste was separated to its own composting tank... perhaps?
As we drive around we look at homes - size, layouts, ... it is more fun than ever.
Some must haves - a window seat big enough to sit and read in comfortably.
a library
a sun room or sunny area to chill
a screened in porch
open concept Kitchen/living room/dining room.
Master Bedroom Suite on first floor - with 4 foot shower
About that Master Suite - I would like the bathroom to have a throne room. and also I would like a pocket door that leads to the "guest half bath" so... while one "throne" is occupied, the second person has easy access to the second "throne." Nothing worse that toilet competition!
I want Chickens and Rabbits too. Not sure Dave is on board with that part yet...
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Gray water and Garbage Disposal
Just read an article in Mother Earth News.
this guy used "grey water" (water from sinks and showers), cleaned it up a but with some filtration, and re-used it to feed his tolets with flushing water. That's not a bad idea!
Then I was thinking about how much I like having a Garbage Disposal. But folks down that way don't have them in their homes, because of the septic systems. Which is fine since it is better to compost anyway.
When new septic systems go in, they have a "brown water" tank for toilet flushes. Then they also have a grey water tank for showers and sink waste.
How about adding two smaller tanks? (Could we get away with making these two smaller tanks out of trash cans? double layered? with cement between the layers?)
The Garbage dispoal could go to the first of those tanks. It's waste stream separated from the sink's other drain system. Then you have a way to say, "okay, that one has been run for 3 years, now we are going to use the second tank." On the 6th year, you clean out the first tank ~ removing the rich compost, and then let that second tank sit for 3 years. Still having the modern convenience of a garbage dispoal, but also the composting benefit. And besides, we all know stuff in composts break down faster if they are ground up first! Why not let the garbage dispoal do the grinding! lol!
Ah.. but wait... how much would it cost to have TWO additional things buried in the yard? and what about the cost of the extra piping and the control value? hummm...
this guy used "grey water" (water from sinks and showers), cleaned it up a but with some filtration, and re-used it to feed his tolets with flushing water. That's not a bad idea!
Then I was thinking about how much I like having a Garbage Disposal. But folks down that way don't have them in their homes, because of the septic systems. Which is fine since it is better to compost anyway.
When new septic systems go in, they have a "brown water" tank for toilet flushes. Then they also have a grey water tank for showers and sink waste.
How about adding two smaller tanks? (Could we get away with making these two smaller tanks out of trash cans? double layered? with cement between the layers?)
The Garbage dispoal could go to the first of those tanks. It's waste stream separated from the sink's other drain system. Then you have a way to say, "okay, that one has been run for 3 years, now we are going to use the second tank." On the 6th year, you clean out the first tank ~ removing the rich compost, and then let that second tank sit for 3 years. Still having the modern convenience of a garbage dispoal, but also the composting benefit. And besides, we all know stuff in composts break down faster if they are ground up first! Why not let the garbage dispoal do the grinding! lol!
Ah.. but wait... how much would it cost to have TWO additional things buried in the yard? and what about the cost of the extra piping and the control value? hummm...
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Mr Brown's Garage is a huge old carriage house. (South-East)
His driveway is lined with massive trees (South)
All of this will reduce the viability of passive solar or active solar.
But...
South-West to West is exposed to the road. Fairly tree free. So if we were to go with active solar, it might be good to start there.
His driveway is lined with massive trees (South)
All of this will reduce the viability of passive solar or active solar.
But...
South-West to West is exposed to the road. Fairly tree free. So if we were to go with active solar, it might be good to start there.
root celar
The more I read "Mother Earth News" magazine, the more I think I might want to be sure to incorporate a root cellar into the design. Maybe off the garage? A small section under the house? I think some thought should be given to food storage in addition to the traditional pantry. I don't think I would ever want to "homestead" and can a zillion cans of everything I could possibly grow... but I like the idea of not shutting down the option also. Putting in a root cellar type area is easier to do when a home is built.
Road Trip?
This company has some really sweet talking things to say....
http://www.sunlighthomes.com/design/sustainable-design
They are in Albuquerque, NM.
Then there are two companies in Ashville NC ~ Deltech home and Spring Time Homes.
http://www.springtimehomes.com/
I am thinking road trip. With a stop to see Scott and Laura of course!
what?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulating_concrete_form
Need to look into this more!
Mentioned in an article ~ architect company called "Sun Plans."
http://www.sunlighthomes.com/design/sustainable-design
They are in Albuquerque, NM.
Then there are two companies in Ashville NC ~ Deltech home and Spring Time Homes.
http://www.springtimehomes.com/
I am thinking road trip. With a stop to see Scott and Laura of course!
what?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulating_concrete_form
Need to look into this more!
Mentioned in an article ~ architect company called "Sun Plans."
Saturday, May 18, 2013
And a special thank you to the fine folks of Vancouver. They just spelled it all out!
http://vancouver.ca/files/cov/passive-home-design.pdf
I have some photos to upload to the blog when I get the chance.
One other thing I wanted to mention. Google has a program called "sketchup" and ~ for free~ I can start playing with designs! Just need to download it.
http://vancouver.ca/files/cov/passive-home-design.pdf
I have some photos to upload to the blog when I get the chance.
One other thing I wanted to mention. Google has a program called "sketchup" and ~ for free~ I can start playing with designs! Just need to download it.
A week as passed since my last post.
Round homes... ????
eft!
maybe not! Not the best use of land maybe. Too much wasted space?
Been looking at kit homes today.
Found this rather cool article.
Maybe I should say "warm" because its about passive solar.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/guest-blogs/cost-effective-passive-solar-design
And then...
for some thing completely different....
This guy has his own ideas and is a bit combative in how he presents them ~
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/guest-blogs/contrarian-view-passive-solar-design
If he is so right, why does he mention the wood stove or boiler fan?
Round homes... ????
eft!
maybe not! Not the best use of land maybe. Too much wasted space?
Been looking at kit homes today.
Found this rather cool article.
Maybe I should say "warm" because its about passive solar.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/guest-blogs/cost-effective-passive-solar-design
And then...
for some thing completely different....
This guy has his own ideas and is a bit combative in how he presents them ~
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/guest-blogs/contrarian-view-passive-solar-design
If he is so right, why does he mention the wood stove or boiler fan?
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Maybe a Deltech home?
So there is a company that makes kits.
Round homes.
Totally flexible design options.
They ... could maybe beef up their sustainable design,
but I really like the kits, the options, the flow of it all.
I can see how ... what they have to offer...fits what I have in mind.
But a round house?
Really?
That's just funky!
www.deltechomes.com
Check out the floor plans! And the interior photos! Yeah, I can see growing old there!!!
Round homes.
Totally flexible design options.
They ... could maybe beef up their sustainable design,
but I really like the kits, the options, the flow of it all.
I can see how ... what they have to offer...fits what I have in mind.
But a round house?
Really?
That's just funky!
www.deltechomes.com
Check out the floor plans! And the interior photos! Yeah, I can see growing old there!!!
Saturday, May 11, 2013
a nicely wrapped nut shell
Mother Earth News
February / March 2011 issue
page 41
"You can...start out with high levels of insulation and build a tightly sealed home with low heating loads. ... incorporate passive-solar building principles that will reduce the heating loads. Passive-solar design strategies include facing the long axis of the house south, sizing roof overhangs appropriately, and using high-mass building materials and high performance windows. In a well-designed passive solar home, heating loads will already be minimal, so solar collectors should be able to provide even more of a home's heat."
Yes, I can agree with that general idea...
Its the specifics I seek to sink my teeth into!
February / March 2011 issue
page 41
"You can...start out with high levels of insulation and build a tightly sealed home with low heating loads. ... incorporate passive-solar building principles that will reduce the heating loads. Passive-solar design strategies include facing the long axis of the house south, sizing roof overhangs appropriately, and using high-mass building materials and high performance windows. In a well-designed passive solar home, heating loads will already be minimal, so solar collectors should be able to provide even more of a home's heat."
Yes, I can agree with that general idea...
Its the specifics I seek to sink my teeth into!
Roofing
Roofing materials -
either make money, or are worth money.
If we were to try to incorporate solar into our roof ~
I would want something like this...
http://www.certainteed.com/products/roofing/solar/341624
Where it is not mounted on brackets... but the solar IS the roofing materials.
There is a hitch....
(of course)
as I have mentioned before,...
this is an old neighborhood with a number of trees...and we don't have control of the entire tree line to the south.
That being said...
MOST of the trees that are blocking our solar access...
are Norway Maples.
Norway Maples grow up to 98 feet tall and live up to 250 years of age. They tend to get heavily damaged in storms.
Trees.. function as a colony. If we remove all of the trees on our property ...that are capable of casting a winter shadow on our house, this will leave the Maples to the South of us exposed to some strong harsh Nor-Easter winds.
The trees that line his driveway are just stunning with a beautiful canopy.
The cooling effect this canopy has in the summer is just stunning as it creates a breeze in the area.
Taking down all of our trees,
in the hopes of using the solar we can get...
and hurting the trees around his drive way...
Just seems like evil.
Maybe solar isn't the way to go!
In which case, I want a metal roof.
It can last for 50 years. When you take it off you can sell it for scrap.
Maybe in 50 years ~ the neighbors trees will be dead?
I still think that building the house with passive solar in mind is still the way to go, even if we don't get as much of a benefit due to neighbor's trees.
IF Solar could work,
I would like to see the solar convert to electric energy.
Limited battery storage. A few hours of power stored maybe?
With "meter running backwards" capacity as well.
two things I would like to learn more about:
heat pumps
heat exchangers
What follows is copied from the web site (listed above) about roofing made of solar panels.
"Apollo II Solar Roofing - Radiant energy...Brilliant Looks In our highest producing solar shingle.
System Benefits
Apollo II Solar Roofing System is the pinnacle of energy production, using monocrystalline silicon solar cells to capture and convert more solar energy per square foot than any other CertainTeed solution.
Features and Benefits
Apollo II Solar Roofing is the versatile solution for maximum power and flexibility in installation directly on new or existing roofs.
Efficiency: 14 high-efficiency monocrystalline silicon solar cells per module for a power rating of 54 watts per module.
Low profile: The slim profile provides a clean integrated look that a rack mounted system cannot match.
Lightweight: No need for structural reinforcements or analysis. Each module weighs only 12 pounds or about as many pounds per square foot as a typical asphalt shingle.
Load rating: Modules are rated to 250 pounds per square foot.
Wind resistance rating: Apollo II roofing systems achieve a 110 mph wind resistance rating.
Water handling: Water channels and raised fastener locations further improve the integrity of Apollo II as a roofing system.
Wire management: Open space under the modules allows for easy wire/installation and eliminates the possibility of wires being pinched between the module and the roof deck.
Aesthetics: Black (frame) on black (cells) on black (backsheet) provides a greater aesthetic and visually blends with the surrounding roof.
Benefits In Your Bill...and In Your World
Apollo II makes you master of the sun with a system that harnesses more energy per square foot than any other, significantly decreasing your home's draw on the grid and reducing carbon emissions.
With its maximum output potential, Apollo II can generate most or all of the electricity your home uses during the day. And if you don't use all the electricity your roof makes, the excess power flows back through your meter into the power grid, causing your electric bill to go down even further.
That makes Apollo II Solar Roofing one of the most environmentally conscious things you can do with your home for a beautiful, ecologically-sound future.
either make money, or are worth money.
If we were to try to incorporate solar into our roof ~
I would want something like this...
http://www.certainteed.com/products/roofing/solar/341624
Where it is not mounted on brackets... but the solar IS the roofing materials.
There is a hitch....
(of course)
as I have mentioned before,...
this is an old neighborhood with a number of trees...and we don't have control of the entire tree line to the south.
That being said...
MOST of the trees that are blocking our solar access...
are Norway Maples.
Norway Maples grow up to 98 feet tall and live up to 250 years of age. They tend to get heavily damaged in storms.
Trees.. function as a colony. If we remove all of the trees on our property ...that are capable of casting a winter shadow on our house, this will leave the Maples to the South of us exposed to some strong harsh Nor-Easter winds.
The trees that line his driveway are just stunning with a beautiful canopy.
The cooling effect this canopy has in the summer is just stunning as it creates a breeze in the area.
Taking down all of our trees,
in the hopes of using the solar we can get...
and hurting the trees around his drive way...
Just seems like evil.
Maybe solar isn't the way to go!
In which case, I want a metal roof.
It can last for 50 years. When you take it off you can sell it for scrap.
Maybe in 50 years ~ the neighbors trees will be dead?
I still think that building the house with passive solar in mind is still the way to go, even if we don't get as much of a benefit due to neighbor's trees.
IF Solar could work,
I would like to see the solar convert to electric energy.
Limited battery storage. A few hours of power stored maybe?
With "meter running backwards" capacity as well.
two things I would like to learn more about:
heat pumps
heat exchangers
What follows is copied from the web site (listed above) about roofing made of solar panels.
"Apollo II Solar Roofing - Radiant energy...Brilliant Looks In our highest producing solar shingle.
System Benefits
Apollo II Solar Roofing System is the pinnacle of energy production, using monocrystalline silicon solar cells to capture and convert more solar energy per square foot than any other CertainTeed solution.
Features and Benefits
Apollo II Solar Roofing is the versatile solution for maximum power and flexibility in installation directly on new or existing roofs.
Efficiency: 14 high-efficiency monocrystalline silicon solar cells per module for a power rating of 54 watts per module.
Low profile: The slim profile provides a clean integrated look that a rack mounted system cannot match.
Lightweight: No need for structural reinforcements or analysis. Each module weighs only 12 pounds or about as many pounds per square foot as a typical asphalt shingle.
Load rating: Modules are rated to 250 pounds per square foot.
Wind resistance rating: Apollo II roofing systems achieve a 110 mph wind resistance rating.
Water handling: Water channels and raised fastener locations further improve the integrity of Apollo II as a roofing system.
Wire management: Open space under the modules allows for easy wire/installation and eliminates the possibility of wires being pinched between the module and the roof deck.
Aesthetics: Black (frame) on black (cells) on black (backsheet) provides a greater aesthetic and visually blends with the surrounding roof.
Benefits In Your Bill...and In Your World
Apollo II makes you master of the sun with a system that harnesses more energy per square foot than any other, significantly decreasing your home's draw on the grid and reducing carbon emissions.
With its maximum output potential, Apollo II can generate most or all of the electricity your home uses during the day. And if you don't use all the electricity your roof makes, the excess power flows back through your meter into the power grid, causing your electric bill to go down even further.
That makes Apollo II Solar Roofing one of the most environmentally conscious things you can do with your home for a beautiful, ecologically-sound future.
Sunday, May 5, 2013
JUST MY NOTES FROM AN ARTICLE I LIKED
A FEW QUOTES FROM AN ONLINE ARTICLE I AM READING:
http://www.cchrc.org/docs/sns/Zedda-Abstract.pdf
"Provide a roof structure that will allow future location of photovoltaic and solar thermal arrays."
"Use of natural ventilation along with supply air brought it from air cooled by groundwater."
YES,
How do we cool the place in the summer? There are about 4 weeks of summer that might be more comfortable with an AC unit. But in place of an AC unit, can we run pipes down into the ground to capture coolness from ground water / water table? (without increasing Radon exposure)
So far all the info is applicable to places like Maine, Canada, and Alaska. But how about COOLING factors?
"including natural light in every space." ~ sounds like a novel concept... even if it is from the north a "reflective" lighting.
Oh, and ran into someone that said they knew a couple that build a home for their golden years. They put the master on the first floor. Then they built it so that after the kids moved out (god willing our kids will one day ~ actually move out) they had built in shut offs. All water and heat could be shut off with some changes of valves. All water, heat, and electricity shut off. Then they had a way to block the heat rising up there. Not a bad concept. So... insulate the first floor... from the second floor... as you insulate from the second floor to the roof. Then save one piece of foam, pre cut to fit in the stairs to make it look like a wall, and the upstairs... disappears. Disappears from the Utility bill.
"heat recovery ventilation (HRV) system"
also called THE MAGIC BOX
"They installed the largest solar array in the YT on the south side to provide a total
output of 3.825 kW of power using a type of solar panel that didn’t require a battery bank. The building is small and the batteries would have taken a large portion of the space. Excess power is sold to the local utility in the summer and bought back in the winter. "
also called NET ZERO.
OOPS~ SOMETHING TO AVOID HERE:
"The building was designed and built in factory and then disassembled and shipped to the site. A problem was encountered because the building design didn’t account for the SIP joints adding 1/8” per joint to the width of the structure. As there were many SIP joints, the last panel wall extended 6” beyond the foundation. There was also a problem with a 1” gap between the sill plate and the column splice joints."
"Focus on the Basics – Improve thermal efficiency of building envelope before spending big bucks on technological gizmos"
on the radar
It is almost comical how ... when you have something in mind, ... on your radar... suddenly the info starts pouring in.
Was at the Doctors with the little one.
Saw a magazine on the rack that ~ perhaps I would never have noticed before.
It is called "Mother Earth News."
Jackpot!
Then I found out they carry it at the library and you can check out back issues. I got 9!
When I return those I will get 9 more!
How to build a sun room that will heat your home,
how to build your own house,
how to build a house that is net zero or off the grid. Very basic info but lots of links and resources listed for more info.
They also had info about Yurt houses. Its an interesting read. I have zero desire to ever live in a yurt. Be it noted!
They also have a lot of info about making your own soap or bread or raising chickens.... tempting stuff I tell ya!
I might copy some of the pages from the magazine for design info / resource info ... to keep as I return the magazines.
Saw an article in the Newspaper today.
http://www.ctpost.com/default/article/UA-prof-lauded-for-energy-efficient-home-4488449.php
Basically a professor (Teaches sustainable living stuff and energy efficient home designs) managed to build a home in Fairbanks Alaska that uses 20 gallons of heating oil a year ~ instead of 700 gallons.
If he can do that in FAIRBANKS ALASKA ~ home of the frozen hell!!! I sure as heck think we can do it in RI! No brainer!
He teaches a class that I could "attend" remotely. They call it "Distance Learning." I figure the class will just make me read the same materials I would have read if I had done my own research, but with the added pressure of deadlines and papers to write.
I still might try to find out what materials he is using to teach his class....
Was at the Doctors with the little one.
Saw a magazine on the rack that ~ perhaps I would never have noticed before.
It is called "Mother Earth News."
Jackpot!
Then I found out they carry it at the library and you can check out back issues. I got 9!
When I return those I will get 9 more!
How to build a sun room that will heat your home,
how to build your own house,
how to build a house that is net zero or off the grid. Very basic info but lots of links and resources listed for more info.
They also had info about Yurt houses. Its an interesting read. I have zero desire to ever live in a yurt. Be it noted!
They also have a lot of info about making your own soap or bread or raising chickens.... tempting stuff I tell ya!
I might copy some of the pages from the magazine for design info / resource info ... to keep as I return the magazines.
Saw an article in the Newspaper today.
http://www.ctpost.com/default/article/UA-prof-lauded-for-energy-efficient-home-4488449.php
Basically a professor (Teaches sustainable living stuff and energy efficient home designs) managed to build a home in Fairbanks Alaska that uses 20 gallons of heating oil a year ~ instead of 700 gallons.
If he can do that in FAIRBANKS ALASKA ~ home of the frozen hell!!! I sure as heck think we can do it in RI! No brainer!
He teaches a class that I could "attend" remotely. They call it "Distance Learning." I figure the class will just make me read the same materials I would have read if I had done my own research, but with the added pressure of deadlines and papers to write.
I still might try to find out what materials he is using to teach his class....
Monday, April 29, 2013
That Wisconsin House
Somewhere in a box,
I have a little book.
It was something I picked up in Wisconsin in 1993.
It was about a house that was heated by passive solar.
Any-who...
the point I wanted to make...
they had a mud room / coat room between the garage and the kitchen.
they had their fridge backed up to the mud room.
Ya see...refrigerators produce heat.
Then, they vent that heat ... to the wall behind them.
The wall behind them gets hot.
Which makes the fridge work harder.
So imagine this...
the space behind the fridge was wall-less.
So all of the heat from the fridge.. went into the mud room. They were able to dry off their coats, warm gloves, and air out their shoes...
all because the fridge gave off heat that kept the mud room toasty.
They also didn't loose as much heat as they came and went from the garage because of the slight (although not air tight) air lock system that the mud room created.
The fridge didn't have to work as hard, so it used less electricity.
So, the fridge backed into the mud room, an oven that vents to the outside, ... starting to get a lay out for the kitchen...
I have a little book.
It was something I picked up in Wisconsin in 1993.
It was about a house that was heated by passive solar.
Any-who...
the point I wanted to make...
they had a mud room / coat room between the garage and the kitchen.
they had their fridge backed up to the mud room.
Ya see...refrigerators produce heat.
Then, they vent that heat ... to the wall behind them.
The wall behind them gets hot.
Which makes the fridge work harder.
So imagine this...
the space behind the fridge was wall-less.
So all of the heat from the fridge.. went into the mud room. They were able to dry off their coats, warm gloves, and air out their shoes...
all because the fridge gave off heat that kept the mud room toasty.
They also didn't loose as much heat as they came and went from the garage because of the slight (although not air tight) air lock system that the mud room created.
The fridge didn't have to work as hard, so it used less electricity.
So, the fridge backed into the mud room, an oven that vents to the outside, ... starting to get a lay out for the kitchen...
After talking to a fire fighter
After a talk with a fire fighter...
I would like a fire wall between the garage and the house.
If there is a room over the garage, it will also be separated from the house by a fire wall.
Doors, ... did you know that doors are rated based on "burn time" ~ how long does it take for a fire to get through it.
He recommended getting a door between the garage and the house that has a 1.5 hour burn time.
He also said the weakest spot on a door is the door knob area. There should be a very tight seal on that.
So the door to the room above the garage, to the rest of the upstairs, should also have a door like that.
I would like a fire wall between the garage and the house.
If there is a room over the garage, it will also be separated from the house by a fire wall.
Doors, ... did you know that doors are rated based on "burn time" ~ how long does it take for a fire to get through it.
He recommended getting a door between the garage and the house that has a 1.5 hour burn time.
He also said the weakest spot on a door is the door knob area. There should be a very tight seal on that.
So the door to the room above the garage, to the rest of the upstairs, should also have a door like that.
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